The Camino Portugués Coastal Route: A Practical, Complete Guide

If you are thinking about walking the Camino Portugués Coastal Route, this guide is my own experience of walking it in 2025, with the practical tips I wish I had known before the trip.

I walked it from Baiona, in 6 stages and about 128 km. If you would rather start from Porto or from Tui, which is what most people do, further down I explain what the Camino Portugués from Porto and from Tui looks like, where it goes and where it joins my route.

The 6 stages of the Camino Portugués coastal route at a glance

I walked 6 stages from Baiona to Santiago, plus an arrival day and another one to see Santiago without a backpack. This is the full route, with what my watch recorded, the official kilometres and the elevation of each stage:

In total I walked 147 km in almost 37 hours on the clock. One clarification about the distance, because it tends to confuse people: the official route from Baiona to Santiago is about 128 km^[1][2], but my watch recorded 147. The difference is the coastal variants I took whenever the weather was good, the detours (the A Barosa waterfalls, the loop out to Cesantes) and wandering around each town at the end of the stage. If you go straight through, count on the 128. The elevation figures are Gronze's^[23]: as you can see, no stage climbs more than 405 metres.

Further down you have each stage with its stops, photos and map, and after the stages, the route ready to print.

Do you need to be fit to walk the Camino Portugués?

Twenty years ago a university classmate of mine walked the Camino, and that story stayed with me. When I finally sat down to decide, I compared several routes and dates with two clear criteria:

1. I wanted a good experience in late August (mild weather, no extremes)
2. And at the same time, I wanted to avoid the crowded routes

That is why I chose the Portuguese Coastal Route, starting in Baiona and reaching Santiago in six days (with stops in Vigo, Redondela/Cesantes, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis and Padrón). It is a very varied route (sea, beaches, villages and forest sections) and far less busy than the alternatives. As for fitness: with official stages of 15 to 27 km and less than 405 metres of climbing a day, you do not need to be an athlete, but you do need to have walked for several hours in a row before.

What kind of traveller am I, and how did I approach the Camino?

• Minimalist: I walked with a 4.5 kg backpack. Travelling light let me enjoy it more, move without pain and not wrestle with luggage at the end of every stage.
• Sleep first: I am a light sleeper and I need to sleep well, so I did not use albergues. I went for guesthouses, pensiones and apartments, and I booked in advance (mostly on Booking) so I would not have to improvise at the end of the day, and because many albergues do not take reservations.
• Planning: I had the stages defined, the accommodation locked in, and some slack for small, pretty detours (waterfalls before Caldas de Reis, for instance, or coastal stretches off the official route when the weather allowed).
• Payments: in Galicia you sometimes need cash (city buses, small bars). Carrying coins saved me trouble.

What clothes did I take?

My rule was light layers, quick-drying, few items. You do not need much, but you do need the right things:

• Backpack: I bought this 30 L Quechua NH100 at Decathlon for €13.99. Very light, and it holds a surprising amount.
• Upper body: 2 quick-drying technical t-shirts (I rotated them, washing one in the afternoon and drying it overnight) and a light thermal layer for the cool early hours.
• Lower body: 2 pairs of technical walking shorts, and one pair of long trousers in case it got chilly (I did not wear them a single day).
• Underwear: 3 pairs of quick-drying briefs.
• Rain gear: in Galicia the rain appears and disappears. Careful: the jacket I started with was not actually waterproof and I had to buy a rain jacket in Redondela. If I did it again, I would set off with a good one from day 1. I would also recommend a waterproof cover for the backpack (I bought this one at Decathlon).
• Footwear: I applied the minimalist approach to footwear too, and took a pair of minimalist sandals (these Pies Sucios huaraches) and a pair of minimalist shoes (which I only wore one day). I walked 95% of the Camino in the sandals, some sections even barefoot, because at an average of ~24 ºC the weather was perfect, and that way I avoided blisters. Nothing hurt, and my feet stayed much cooler than they would have in closed shoes.
• Small extras: sunscreen (bear in mind you will be walking 5–6 hours a day, and you can burn even on a cloudy day), toothpaste, deodorant, contact lens solution, a water bottle (essential day to day), sunglasses, a zip bag for documents and phone if it rains, and a small first-aid kit.

Which shoes should you take if you are not going minimalist?

Most pilgrims walk in trail running shoes or light hiking shoes, not mountain boots. Three brands come up again and again on the forums, each with its own strength:

• Hoka: a thick sole with lots of cushioning and little weight. The choice for people who want to protect their knees and feet on long stages with plenty of tarmac, like the walk into Vigo or the final stretch to Santiago.
• Altra: a wide, foot-shaped toe box and a flat sole, with no drop between heel and toes. Your toes spread as you step, and it is the closest thing to my sandals, but with cushioning.
• Merrell: the classic hiking shoe (the Moab), sturdy with good grip, and available in a waterproof version for Galician rain.

Why this route (and why August)?

• Weather and season: late August in Galicia usually means around 23 ºC, intermittent sun and short showers. For me it was perfect: I could alternate beaches and forests without stifling heat.
• Varied scenery: I did not want to be in forest the whole time, or in villages the whole time. Here you get coastline, seafront promenades, quiet villages and green stretches. On top of that, the route is flat and not technically difficult.
• Moderate traffic: I noticed far fewer people than on the more famous routes. That let me walk at my own pace, think, and still find services when I needed them.

Is it better to hire an agency, or to organise it yourself?

While planning my route, I asked Santiago Ways and Orbis Ways for a quote (they belong to the same group, by the way).

The upside: they take the searching and booking off your hands (accommodation, meals and so on) and it is extremely convenient if you are short on time or the logistics stress you out.

My reality: the price they quoted me for accommodation and meals alone came to the same as my entire trip cost me on my own, flights included. So organising it myself was cheaper, more flexible and, honestly, more fun. If you do not want to plan anything or you are travelling in peak season, an agency can make sense; otherwise, with advance bookings and flexible cancellation, DIY wins.

How much does the Portuguese Coastal Way cost? My real budget

The whole trip, 9 days from Barcelona back to Barcelona in late August 2025, cost me €1,237.94. I logged every expense in a spreadsheet, so these are the real figures:

What is behind each item:

• Accommodation: about €63 a night, always in a single room.
• Flights: Barcelona → Vigo (€144.99) and Santiago → Barcelona (€189.99).
• Food and drink: about €32 a day, mixing bars, restaurants and supermarkets.
• Gear: the backpack, the rain cover and a few other things from Decathlon, plus the rain jacket I bought in Redondela.
• Local transport: the Aerobús in Barcelona and the buses in Vigo and to Baiona.
• Souvenirs and gifts: prints, a magnet, a cake and a present.

Without flights and souvenirs, the Camino itself (accommodation, food, gear and transport) came to about €873. Two things that can bring that down a lot:

• Accommodation is the biggest cost. I always slept in guesthouses, hotels and apartments, in a single room, because resting properly was my priority and I am a light sleeper. A pilgrim albergue is much cheaper, in exchange for sharing a dorm and the fact that many do not take reservations.
• Book your flights early. I bought mine fairly last-minute and it shows: flights are more than a quarter of the total. Booking ahead brings the price down a lot, and on the last day I explain why buying the two legs separately worked out better for me.

How many days do you need, and where to start: Porto, Baiona or Vigo?

The short answer: from Baiona it is 6 walking days, which is what I chose. But the Camino Portugués Coastal Route can be started at several points, and everything else follows from that:

And in 5 days? It can be done, in two ways: starting in Vigo (the cleaner option) or merging two of the short stages. I would not merge: my longest stage was 29 km and it was already hard at the end, so adding Caldas–Padrón to another one leaves you a day of more than 40 km. Before compressing, trim the beginning.

What about the albergues? There are albergues along the whole route, but I did not use a single one: I am a light sleeper and I need to rest properly, so I went for pensiones, guesthouses and apartments booked in advance. If you are going to use albergues, bear in mind that many do not take reservations and that the ones in Redondela fill up early, so either you arrive early or you carry on to the next town (that is what took me to Cesantes, where I ended up in a room facing the ría).

What is the Pilgrim Credential and how does it work?

The Pilgrim Credential is your Camino passport: you collect stamps along the way and, on arriving in Santiago, you can request the Compostela^[6]. The tradition is more than a thousand years old: since the Middle Ages, pilgrims from all over Europe have walked the Way of St James to Santiago. Today the Friends of the Camino associations look after the waymarking and many of the albergues.

To get it you need to walk at least 100 km (or 200 km by bike)^[4]. In practice, you will be asked for two stamps a day over the last 100 km; I collected at least three every day for simplicity (one in the morning at my accommodation and one at midday in a bar, church or tourist office).

I bought my credencial in Baiona (Hotel Anunciada, for €3). On the first page there is a QR code you have to scan, which asks for your basic details (name, where you are starting from, and so on). Once filled in, it gives you an alphanumeric code that you need to write down, and that is the same code you give in Santiago de Compostela at the Pilgrim Office: you show your code, they check your stamps, and they hand you the Compostela.

Do you need to book accommodation in advance? How I planned each stage

I organised everything myself through Booking, because it is the simplest option: accommodation with flexible cancellation, everything centralised in the app (addresses, check-in, last-minute changes) and zero stress at the end of each stage.

To find my way and choose between variants I used the Buen Camino app (maps, detours, elevation profiles and points of interest)^[7]: it helped me leave Vigo via the port, pick coastal stretches when the weather allowed, and locate stamps.

How many hours a day do you walk, and when should you set off? My routine

I walked between 5 h 30 and 7 h 20 a day on the clock, depending on the stage (they are all in the table above). But that number says little without the routine, because I did not do what almost everyone else did: leave at 6 or 7 in the morning. I preferred to sleep well, have a slow breakfast and start walking around 10 or 10:30.

A normal day looked roughly like this:

1. Two or three hours of walking and a short break of about 15 minutes.
2. Another two hours, then a proper stop to eat, half an hour.
3. One or two more hours, with another half-hour break.
4. The last two hours to the accommodation, aiming to arrive around 6 or 7 in the evening.

Arriving at that time left me the evening for what mattered: a shower, washing the day's clothes, going out for dinner, then something quiet to watch or read, and bed around 11 or midnight. Leaving late has another advantage on this route: by then the wave of early pilgrims has gone past, and I walked a good part of the time alone. Since I had booked my accommodation ahead, I did not have the pressure of arriving early to get a bed in an albergue, which is what makes so many people get up in the dark.

Day 1 – From Barcelona to Baiona (via Vigo)

Although the usual thing is to start the Camino Portugués in Tui (in Galicia, on the border with Portugal), I wanted to start in Baiona for a very simple reason: from there it is around 128 km to Santiago, the perfect distance to split into six real walking days (with room for pretty detours and an extra day in Santiago). And being the coastal Portuguese route, it gave me exactly what I was after in late August: varied scenery (beaches plus green stretches) and fewer crowds than the more popular ways (and, unlike the Central Portuguese route, the sea).

I flew out of Barcelona on 27 August 2025 with Vueling. In summer, Vigo is a destination with temperamental weather, and I found that out first-hand: my flight was scheduled for 13:30 and took off around 15:00 because of conditions at the destination. No harm done: the flight is under two hours and Peinador airport is small; with a light backpack (4.5 kg) I was outside in five minutes.

To get from the airport to the centre I took the line A bus, which runs roughly every 36 minutes (hourly on Sunday mornings)^[8]. It costs €1.63, takes about 25–30 minutes, and here comes the first practical Camino tip: it does not take cards, and the driver only gives change up to €10^[9]. Carrying coins saves you the last-minute scramble.

I got off at Vialia Vigo (the intermodal station), which doubles as a shopping centre: I bought water and bananas for the afternoon and carried on with the plan. I had wanted to wander around Vigo, but after the delayed flight it was better to head straight for Baiona and arrive without rushing.

The intercity bus to Baiona leaves from the same station. It is a journey of under an hour and very scenic: if you can, sit on the right-hand side to watch the ría go by.

I dropped my backpack at the guesthouse and went out for a simple dinner in the centre (I ended up with crêpes and a waffle), a short walk and then bed: on day one I only wanted to rest, so I could start walking properly the next morning.

One important note about the Pilgrim Credential in Baiona. I had also read that the church sells it; it does not. The church opens in the afternoon, but it does not issue credentials. I bought mine at the Hotel Anunciada (right in the centre) for €3. That is the quick way: you walk in, ask for it, and walk out ready to start collecting stamps on day two.

Where I stayed in Baiona

I stayed at Pensión O Escondidiño, five minutes from the centre and with an Eroski supermarket next door for last-minute shopping. Quiet at night, comfortable bed and no surprises: exactly what I need, because I sleep lightly.

Day 2, Stage 1 – From Baiona to Vigo (27 km)

I woke up in Baiona without rushing, and the first thing I did was get the credencial stamped at Pensión O Escondidiño. Before setting off, I took one last walk through the centre of Baiona. The weather was on my side (clear sky, mild temperature), so I took the coastal variant, which stays right by the sea.

It is a long but gentle stage: it is not hard, though you feel it if you leave late. That day I set off close to midday (I had a couple of things to sort out) and ended up stopping for lunch near Playa de Patos. I had a restaurant with sea views in mind, but it was full. Lesson learned: in high season, book ahead if you want a table on the front line. I improvised at a simple place next door and ate quickly to press on.

The entrance to Vigo feels endless if you arrive tired: it is a big city, long avenues and a seafront promenade that seems never to end. Patience. The upside is that you keep seeing the Cíes Islands in the distance and you gradually slide into city life.

Where I stayed in Vigo

I chose Hotel Arsus, right in the centre: 5 minutes from Calle del Príncipe and 2 minutes from Vialia Vigo (the intermodal station with the shopping centre). From there you can buy supplies in a few minutes, and the next morning you go straight down to the port route without any detours.

One logistical note that served me well for the next stage: it is better to stay past the Plaza de España roundabout, near the station (train and buses) or in the old town. That way you avoid starting the next day with the climb up to that area, which you otherwise have to cross to continue the Camino.

Day 3, Stage 2 – From Vigo to Redondela (Cesantes, 24 km)

I woke up in the centre of Vigo with a logistical advantage: sleeping on the far side of Plaza de España saved me from starting the day with an unnecessary climb. I headed down to the port to join the scenic exit the Buen Camino app recommends and, on the way, stopped at the Vigo Tourist Office (here) for the first stamp of the day. At that hour the city was calm, around 22 ºC, with that typical Galician sky that alternates clear patches and clouds.

The exit through the port is pleasant and direct, but as soon as you leave Vigo behind the first serious climbs arrive. Nothing impossible, but you feel them: the route strings together urban stretches and trails and, little by little, takes you into forest. The arrows and shells of the official route appear here, so you cannot get lost. I came across more pilgrims than on previous days, though the atmosphere was still very calm, another reason I like this variant so much: it lets you walk at your own pace and, if you feel like it, in silence.

The weather did its thing: a couple of short downpours followed by clear spells. A rain jacket is enough for that, as long as it is waterproof. In Redondela I realised the jacket I was carrying was not actually waterproof and I had to buy a rain jacket there. If I started again, I would set off with a good one from day 1.

On the practical side, carry water and something to eat. Between Vigo and Redondela there are not many comfortable places to stop. Halfway through the stage, in Cabanas, there is a restaurant with views of the Rande bridge (O Eido Vello Cabanas, here) which, to be honest, struck me as expensive for what it offers and covered in too many signs telling you what you cannot do, which takes away the charm. If you still have energy, better to carry on and take a short break further ahead, in the forest.

Where I stayed in Redondela/Cesantes

I chose Hostal Antolín (Cesantes). It faces the beach, in a very quiet area with fantastic views of the Rande bridge. The room was large and modern, with a big shower and a terrace/balcony looking straight out over the ría, where I stretched my legs after the stage. The 20-minute detour off the Camino is worth it if you value silence and scenery. As a bonus, you can get your credencial stamped at reception in the morning before setting off again.

I closed the day with a practical decision: since I had read good reviews of the hotel on Booking but weak opinions about the restaurant on Google (especially about the food), I opted for a picnic dinner. I bought bread, cheese and salad and had it with grapes in my room: simple and cheap.

Day 4, Stage 3 – From Redondela to Pontevedra (22 km)

I started the day in Cesantes, rejoining the Camino after the detour to the hotel (about 20 minutes walking by the water). A typical Galician morning: clouds, 23 °C and the odd clear spell. There were noticeably more people than on previous days (couples, the odd solo walker) but never crowded.

Leaving Redondela mixes a bit of everything: an urban stretch to warm up and then, straight away, forest. The terrain is varied (earth, stone, the occasional short rock you climb without using your hands) with moderate elevation change; nothing extreme, but it adds up. My routine worked very well here: first stamp of the day at the hotel, before setting off.

Just before reaching Pontevedra there is a fork (clearly marked in the Buen Camino app too). Out of curiosity I went straight on along the road: it is more direct, but I would not take it again: bleak villages, almost no cars, but no services and nothing to see either. If you prefer a friendlier stretch, take the longer but prettier alternative.

Arriving in Pontevedra is a relief: the last few kilometres are manageable and then, suddenly, the old town. I got there with enough time to walk around a while and get my bearings for the next day (spoiler for the next chapter: Sunday in Pontevedra means a lot of closed shops, so it is worth buying what you need on the Saturday you arrive).

Where I stayed in Pontevedra

I stayed at Hotel Ruas, next to Plaza de la Verdura. Perfect location for getting around on foot, but I would not recommend it if resting is your priority: poor soundproofing, old furniture and you hear everything. It delivers on location and not much else; if you can, look for something central but quieter.

Day 5, Stage 4 – From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (24 km)

I left Pontevedra on a Sunday and the city was almost silent: shutters down, few people and very few shops open. That detail shaped the logistics; anything I had not bought the day before was going to be hard to find. A few minutes after leaving the centre, the Camino headed into forest. The trail was earth with some muddy patches from the overnight rain and narrow stretches shared with bikes; they appeared without warning, so I had to stay alert. It was not a hard climb, but a gentle, constant ascent that warmed up the legs. I came across very few people, and that calm helped me walk at my own pace and think.

With half the town closed, dinner was a kebab nearby, and then rest.

Where I stayed in Caldas de Reis

I stayed at the Terra de Augas II apartment, a minute from the centre. They left the keys downstairs and I walked straight in; a long shower, a bit of tidying and silence to recover. Arriving on a Sunday to an apartment turned out to be a good call: with few places open, having your own space simplified the afternoon and left me ready for the stretch to Padrón the next day. I also had the whole apartment (two bedrooms, four beds in total) to myself.

Day 6, Stage 5 – From Caldas de Reis to Padrón (21 km)

I got up in no hurry: this stage is short (about 19 km on the official route)^[11] and perfect for recharging before the final push to Santiago. It was a Monday, so before setting off I wandered through the street market on the main street and, almost as a ritual, stopped at the public thermal fountain to soak my feet.

I started walking around 12:00. The first kilometres mixed quiet streets with shaded tracks and, soon enough, forest. A short downpour came down, enough to leave mud and puddles; once it cleared, the path was cool and comfortable to carry on. At that hour pilgrim traffic was low, so I moved at my own pace, unhurried.

Walking calmly, I got to Padrón around 18:00. Doing the maths, I could even have left later; at a steady pace, this stage takes about 4 h 30 min.

Where I stayed in Padrón

I stayed at Apartamento Salomé, in the central area. Being so close to the old town and to the Camino route made it easy to set off early the next day without adding extra metres. And with everything at hand (the square, bars and a shop), I could have dinner and get my backpack ready calmly before the final day.

Day 7, Stage 6 – From Padrón to Santiago de Compostela (29 km)

It dawned raining and I decided to wait. I left Padrón around 10:30, knowing I had about 25 km^[12] ahead of me and that it was going to be a long day.

The start was not especially pretty: the first kilometres hug the road, crossing neighbourhoods and plain villages while you get into your rhythm. As I went on, the route became more varied: stretches of forest and countryside that relieve the tarmac and help keep your head fresh. There were more pilgrims than on previous days; you could tell it was the final push for many of them.

On the practical side, one thing surprised me that day: in the last two hours there are not many places to get something hot to eat. I ended up having a cold sandwich in a bar about two hours from Santiago, because there was not much else.

You feel the final stretch. Before entering Santiago there is a viaduct and the surroundings turn urban again; it is not the prettiest part, but you have to get through it. The hardest bit comes at the end: the last hour is almost all uphill. I took a short break in Ames to recharge, and I would recommend it: that pause helps you face the final ramp in better shape.

Where I stayed in Santiago

I slept two nights (the night I arrived, and the following day, which I spent discovering Santiago de Compostela) at Casa Diocesana Vía Lucis. It is a simple, very quiet place with the feel of a diocesan house: sober, well kept and aimed at pilgrims who want to rest properly after the last stage. That was what I needed after the last stage.

It worked particularly well for me logistically: you can walk to the Cathedral and the Pilgrim Office without any trouble, and at the same time you are far enough from the bustle of the old town to sleep without noise.

The Camino Portugués coastal route, ready to print

This is the route stage by stage, with what you need to know about each one: official kilometres, type of terrain, what to see, where to eat and where to get stamps. You can tick the boxes as you go (they are saved in your browser) or print it and carry it in your backpack.

Printable route

Camino Portugués coastal route - from Baiona to Santiago

6 stages · about 128 official km · never more than 405 m of climbing a day

Before you set off

Pilgrim Credential (in Baiona, €3 at Hotel Anunciada) Stamps: two a day over the last 100 km A proper rain jacket and a backpack cover 1-1.5 L of water and something to eat every day €50-80 in cash, in coins and small notes Accommodation booked, especially in Redondela

1 Stage 1 Baiona → Vigo 26.8 km, moderate

Terrain: seafront promenade, stretches of sand and tarmac into Vigo In Sabarís, with good weather, take the coastal variant What to see: the A Ramallosa bridge, Playa América, the Templo Votivo do Mar in Panxón and Samil, with the Cíes in the distance Eat: beach bars and cafés on every beach (book if you want a table with a view) Little shade: sun protection Sleep in Vigo past Plaza de España, so you do not start with the climb

2 Stage 2 Vigo → Redondela 15.4 km, easy

Terrain: tarmac on the way out, tracks and forest, with the first climbs What to see: the exit through the port, the ría and the Rande bridge from Cabanas, the Redondela viaducts Eat: few places between Vigo and Redondela, carry food Stamps: Vigo Tourist Office and Redondela Sleep: the Redondela albergues fill up early; Cesantes is 20 minutes away

3 Stage 3 Redondela → Pontevedra 18.2 km, moderate

Terrain: forest, earth and stone, the stage with the most total climbing What to see: Arcade and the Sampayo bridge, the Santuario de la Peregrina and Plaza de la Verdura Eat: in Arcade, because there is little afterwards until Pontevedra Before Pontevedra, at the fork, take the long variant If you arrive at the weekend, shop on Saturday: almost everything closes on Sunday

4 Stage 4 Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis 22.9 km, easy

Terrain: forest with mud if it has rained, vineyards and rural tracks Narrow stretches shared with bikes What to see: 5-minute detour to the Fervenzas da Barosa Eat: in Barro, halfway through the stage On arrival: feet in the public thermal fountain

5 Stage 5 Caldas de Reis → Padrón 19 km, moderate

Terrain: forest, vineyards and small villages Before you leave: the thermal fountain is empty in the morning Eat: bars in the villages; benches and fountains in the last hour What to see in Padrón: the church of Santiago and the Pedrón

6 Stage 6 Padrón → Santiago 25 km, moderate

Terrain: tarmac at first, forest and countryside, and the last hour uphill What to see: the collegiate church of Iria Flavia, on the way out of Padrón Eat: carry food, there is little hot food in the last two hours Break in Ames before the final climb Arrival: Plaza del Obradoiro and the Pilgrim Office (Compostela free, certificate of distance €3)

Notes

Full guide, with maps and prices: michieldas.com/en/camino-portugues-coastal-route/

Tick what you've already seen: it stays saved in this browser.

Print the route →

Day 8 – What to see in Santiago de Compostela in one day

After collecting the Compostela, I stayed one more day in Santiago. I recommend it: I wanted to see the city without a backpack, walk it calmly and have a day to wind down before going home.

In the morning I walked the old town without rushing: Plaza del Obradoiro, the Cathedral of Santiago from different angles, arcades, small squares and those stone streets with pilgrim atmosphere at every step. The old town is full of craft shops, bookshops, souvenir shops and quiet cafés, and it is easy to wander it without a plan.

In the afternoon I did something very symbolic: I got my hair cut. Many pilgrims cut their hair or get a tattoo on arriving; I went for the first. It was my way of telling my body that the Camino was over. After that, more walking around the centre, a small purchase or two and one last loop past the Obradoiro to look at the façade in the low light.

If you are considering it, my advice: set aside a full day for Santiago. In a single day you can visit the Cathedral of St James the Apostle (including his tomb) at your own pace, eat at the Mercado de Abastos, get lost in the old town and see the city by day and by night. The next day it was time to head home.

Day 9 – From Santiago de Compostela back to Barcelona

Last sunrise in Santiago. I left with time to spare towards the Hórreo Intermodal Bus Station. The airport bus is caught outside, on the street (you do not need to go into the station): it is line 6A^[15], with two services, the direct one taking around 20 minutes and another making more stops and taking around 40. Both cost about €1 (also cash only) and run from 6:00 to 22:45. I took the direct one and was soon at Santiago-Rosalía de Castro airport (Lavacolla) to fly back.

If you are thinking of arriving via Vigo and returning from Santiago, my experience is that it pays to buy the flights separately. When I compared prices, the multi-destination combination came out more expensive than two simple tickets (Barcelona → Vigo and Santiago → Barcelona). Buying them separately I got better times and a better price.

How to walk the Camino Portugués from Porto or from Tui

I started in Baiona, but most pilgrims set off from Porto or from Tui. I have not walked those sections, so there is no diary here: I summarise where each option goes with the official distances, and I mark where it joins my route, because from that point on everything in this guide (accommodation, stamps, where to eat) applies to you too.

From Porto along the coast: about 270 km in 13 stages

This is the full Portuguese Coastal Way: you leave Porto and head north right along the Atlantic to Galicia. From Porto to Redondela it is 187 km^[18], and from Redondela you have the same four stages I walked, about 85 km on the official route^{[20][21][11][12]}. In total, about 270 km: almost two weeks of walking.

These are the usual stages until you join my route^[18]:

What you need to know about this section:

• The Portuguese part is the longest: five stages to Caminha, the last town before the border.
• In Caminha you cross the Miño to A Guarda, already in Galicia^[1]. From there the route follows the coast to Oia and Baiona.
• Stage 7 ends in A Ramallosa, next to Baiona: from there it is exactly my first stage to Vigo, the stretch of beaches I liked most.
• If you only have a week, you do not need to start in Porto: setting off from Baiona or Vigo is enough for the 100 km the Compostela requires.

From Tui: the Central Portuguese Way in 6 stages

Tui is one of the most popular starting points on the Camino Portugués: it sits on the Galician bank of the Miño, across from Valença, and from there it is about 119 km to Santiago^[19], just what you need for the Compostela. Some people start in Valença and walk across the international bridge, so they enter Spain on foot.

One thing to watch: from Tui you do not follow the coast, but go inland on the Central Portuguese Way. It has 6 official stages^[19]:

1. Tui → O Porriño
2. O Porriño → Redondela
3. Redondela → Pontevedra (18.2 km^[20]): this is where the two routes meet, and it is my third stage
4. Pontevedra → Caldas de Reis (22.9 km^[21])
5. Caldas de Reis → Padrón
6. Padrón → Santiago de Compostela

So from Redondela onwards you will walk through the same places I did: the Sampayo bridge in Arcade, the thermal fountain in Caldas, the vineyards before Padrón and the final climb into Santiago. The difference is the first two days, which have no sea. If you are torn between the two routes, the question is simple: if you want coast, beaches and fewer people, start in Baiona or Vigo; if you want the more classic Camino and you are coming from Portugal, Tui is the natural choice.

The essentials of the Portuguese Coastal Way, in short

Before wrapping up, one last look at the essentials: it was ~128 km from Baiona to Santiago, split into 6 stages. I walked the Camino light, with simple logistics (bookings with free cancellation, credencial to hand, two stamps a day) and without obsessing over times. On several stretches (especially in the forests, or already close to Santiago) hot food is scarce, so it worked for me to always carry water and something to eat in my backpack. What I remember most: the beaches before Vigo, the thermal fountain in Caldas and walking into the Plaza del Obradoiro.

And if your next trip is a city one, here is my 7-day New York itinerary, one area per day.

Buen Camino!

Frequently asked questions about the Camino Portugués coastal route