The Camino Portugués Coastal Route: A Practical, Complete Guide

If you are thinking about walking the Camino Portugués Coastal Route, this guide is my 100% practical experience, with all the tricks and tips I wish I had known before the trip.

The 6 stages of the Camino Portugués coastal route at a glance

I walked 6 stages from Baiona to Santiago, plus an arrival day and another one to see Santiago without a backpack. This is the full route, with what my watch recorded on each stage and where I slept:

One clarification about the distance, because it tends to confuse people: the official route from Baiona to Santiago is about 128 km, but my watch recorded 147. The difference is the coastal variants I took whenever the weather was good, the detours (the A Barosa waterfalls, the loop out to Cesantes) and wandering around each town at the end of the stage. If you go straight through, count on the 128.

Do you need to be fit to walk the Camino Portugués?

Twenty years ago a university classmate of mine walked the Camino, and that story stayed with me. When I finally sat down to decide, I compared several routes and dates with two clear criteria:

1. I wanted a good experience in late August (mild weather, no extremes)
2. And at the same time, I wanted to avoid the crowded routes

That is why I chose the Portuguese Coastal Route, starting in Baiona and reaching Santiago in six days (with stops in Vigo, Redondela/Cesantes, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis and Padrón). It is a very varied route (sea, beaches, villages and forest sections) and far less busy than the alternatives.

What kind of traveller am I, and how did I approach the Camino?

• Minimalist: I walked with a 4.5 kg backpack. Travelling light let me enjoy it more, move without pain and not wrestle with luggage at the end of every stage.
• Sleep first: I am a light sleeper and I need to sleep well, so I did not use albergues. I went for guesthouses, pensiones and apartments, and I booked in advance (mostly on Booking) so I would not have to improvise at the end of the day, and because many albergues do not take reservations.
• Planning: I had the stages defined, the accommodation locked in, and some slack for small, pretty detours (waterfalls before Caldas de Reis, for instance, or coastal stretches off the official route when the weather allowed).
• Payments: in Galicia you sometimes need cash (city buses, small bars). Carrying coins saved me trouble.

What clothes did I take?

My rule was light layers, quick-drying, few items. You do not need much, but you do need the right things:

• Backpack: I bought this 30 L Quechua NH100 at Decathlon for 13.99 €. Very light, and it holds a surprising amount.
• Upper body: 2 quick-drying technical t-shirts (I rotated them, washing one in the afternoon and drying it overnight) and a light thermal layer for the cool early hours.
• Lower body: 2 pairs of technical walking shorts, and one pair of long trousers in case it got chilly (I did not wear them a single day).
• Underwear: 3 pairs of quick-drying briefs.
• Rain gear: in Galicia the rain appears and disappears. Careful: the jacket I started with was not actually waterproof and I had to buy a rain jacket in Redondela. If I did it again, I would set off with a good one from day 1. I would also recommend a waterproof cover for the backpack (I bought this one at Decathlon).
• Footwear: I applied the minimalist approach to footwear too, and took a pair of minimalist sandals (these Pies Sucios huaraches) and a pair of minimalist shoes (which I only wore one day). I walked 95% of the Camino in the sandals, some sections even barefoot, because at an average of ~24 ºC the weather was perfect — and that way I avoided blisters.
• Small extras that make a difference: sunscreen (bear in mind you will be walking 5–6 hours a day, and you can burn even on a cloudy day), toothpaste, deodorant, contact lens solution, a water bottle (essential day to day), sunglasses, a zip bag for documents and phone if it rains, and a small first-aid kit.

Why this route (and why August)?

• Weather and season: late August in Galicia usually means around 23 ºC, intermittent sun and short showers. For me it was perfect: I could alternate beaches and forests without stifling heat.
• Varied scenery: I did not want to be in forest the whole time, or in villages the whole time. Here you get coastline, seafront promenades, quiet villages and green stretches. On top of that, the route is flat and not technically difficult.
• Moderate traffic: I noticed far fewer people than on the more famous routes. That let me walk at my own pace, think, and still find services when I needed them.

Is it better to hire an agency, or to organise it yourself?

While planning my route, I asked Santiago Ways and Orbis Ways for a quote (they belong to the same group, by the way).

The upside: they take the searching and booking off your hands (accommodation, meals and so on) and it is extremely convenient if you are short on time or the logistics stress you out.

My reality: the price they quoted me for accommodation and meals alone came to the same as my entire trip cost me on my own, flights included. So organising it myself was cheaper, more flexible and, honestly, more fun. If you do not want to plan anything or you are travelling in peak season, an agency can make sense; otherwise, with advance bookings and flexible cancellation, DIY wins.

How many days do you need, and where to start: Porto, Baiona or Vigo?

The short answer: from Baiona it is 6 walking days, which is what I chose. But the Camino Portugués Coastal Route can be started at several points, and everything else follows from that.

• From Baiona (what I did): 6 stages, ~128 km official. It is the right point to clear the 100 km the Compostela requires with some margin, and it leaves you the whole of the prettiest coastal stretch. You get there by bus from Vigo in under an hour.
• From Vigo: 5 stages. Drop my first stage and you are left with 120 km by my own tracking (24 + 22 + 24 + 21 + 29). It is the natural start if you only have five days or if you fly straight into Vigo, and you still clear the 100 km. What you lose is exactly the beach stretch from Baiona to Vigo, which for me was the prettiest of the six.
• From Tui: the most common start. It is where most people begin, but careful: from Tui you follow the Camino Portugués Central, not the Coastal Route. They are two different routes with almost the same name, and if you came for the sea, this is not it.
• From Porto or Lisbon: that is two weeks and six weeks respectively. A different trip.

And in 5 days? It can be done, in two ways: starting in Vigo (the cleaner option) or merging two of the short stages. I would not merge: my longest stage was 29 km and it was already hard at the end, so adding Caldas–Padrón to another one leaves you a day of more than 40 km. Before compressing, trim the beginning.

What about the albergues? There are albergues along the whole route, but I did not use a single one: I am a light sleeper and I need to rest properly, so I went for pensiones, guesthouses and apartments booked in advance. If you are going to use albergues, bear in mind that many do not take reservations and that the ones in Redondela fill up early, so either you arrive early or you carry on to the next town (that is what took me to Cesantes, and I came out ahead).

What is the Pilgrim Credential and how does it work?

The Pilgrim Credential is your Camino passport: you collect stamps along the way and, on arriving in Santiago, you can request the Compostela. It is part of a tradition with more than a thousand years of European history — since the Middle Ages, thousands of walkers have followed the Way of St James to reach Santiago, and that same spirit is kept alive today by the network of Friends of the Camino associations, who look after the waymarking, the albergues and the welcome that characterises this route.

To get it you need to walk at least 100 km (or 200 km by bike). In practice, you will be asked for two stamps a day over the last 100 km; I collected at least three every day for simplicity (one in the morning at my accommodation and one at midday in a bar, church or tourist office).

I bought my credencial in Baiona (Hotel Anunciada, for 3 €). On the first page there is a QR code you have to scan, which asks for your basic details (name, where you are starting from, and so on). Once filled in, it gives you an alphanumeric code that you need to write down — and that is the same code you give in Santiago de Compostela at the Pilgrim Office: you show your code, they check your stamps, and they hand you the Compostela.

Do you need to book accommodation in advance? How I planned each stage

I organised everything myself through Booking, because it is the simplest option: accommodation with flexible cancellation, everything centralised in the app (addresses, check-in, last-minute changes) and zero stress at the end of each stage.

To find my way and choose between variants I used the Buen Camino app (maps, detours, elevation profiles and points of interest): it helped me leave Vigo via the port, pick coastal stretches when the weather allowed, and locate stamps.

Day 1 – From Barcelona to Baiona (via Vigo)

Although the usual thing is to start the Camino Portugués in Tui (Portugal), I wanted to start in Baiona for a very simple reason: from there it is around 120 km to Santiago, the perfect distance to split into six real walking days (with room for pretty detours and an extra day in Santiago). And being the coastal Portuguese route, it gave me exactly what I was after in late August: varied scenery (beaches plus green stretches) and fewer crowds than the more popular ways — and far prettier than the Central Portuguese route.

I flew out of Barcelona on 27 August with Vueling. In summer, Vigo is a destination with temperamental weather, and I found that out first-hand: my flight was scheduled for 13:30 and took off around 15:00 because of conditions at the destination. No harm done: the flight is under two hours and Peinador airport is small; with a light backpack (4.5 kg) I was outside in five minutes.

To get from the airport to the centre I took the A1 bus. It costs 1.63 €, runs every 30 minutes, takes about 25–30 minutes, and here comes the first practical Camino tip: it does not take cards, and the driver only gives change up to 10 €. Carrying coins saves you the last-minute scramble.

I got off at Vialia Vigo (the intermodal station), which doubles as a shopping centre: I bought water and bananas for the afternoon and carried on with the plan. I had wanted to wander around Vigo, but the delayed flight forced a rethink — better to head straight for Baiona and arrive without rushing.

The intercity bus to Baiona leaves from the same station. It is a journey of under an hour and very scenic: if you can, sit on the right-hand side to watch the ría go by.

Baiona greeted me with exactly the coastal atmosphere I was looking for: touristy, yes, but pleasant.

I dropped my backpack at the guesthouse and went out for a simple dinner in the centre (I ended up with crêpes), a short walk and then bed: the plan for day one was not to see everything, but to arrive rested and start walking properly the next morning.

One important note about the Pilgrim Credential in Baiona. I had also read that the church sells it; it does not. The church opens in the afternoon, but it does not issue credentials. I bought mine at the Hotel Anunciada (right in the centre) for 3 €. That is the quick way: you walk in, ask for it, and walk out ready to start collecting stamps on day two.

Where I stayed in Baiona

I stayed at Pensión O Escondidiño, five minutes from the centre and with an Eroski supermarket next door for last-minute shopping. Quiet at night, comfortable bed and no surprises: exactly what I need, because I sleep lightly.

Day 2, Stage 1 – From Baiona to Vigo (27 km)

I woke up in Baiona without rushing, and the first thing I did was get the credencial stamped at Pensión O Escondidiño. Before setting off, I took one last walk through the centre of Baiona. The weather was on my side (clear sky, mild temperature), so I made the decision that would define the stage: take the coastal variant and stay right by the sea.

Shortly after leaving, the path takes you towards Sabarís. It is a small village with a main street and a bridge of Roman origin crossing the Miñor. Just after the bridge, on the left, is the tourist office: useful if you want to confirm the fork between the inland route (more direct, a bit more shade) and the coastal one (more scenic). With good weather, I went for the coast without hesitating.

The coastal route here is a gift: promenades right by the water, stretches literally along the sand, and that feeling of skirting small beaches where there is barely anyone in the morning. In late August I came across very few pilgrims — mostly locals and surfers.

As you go on, the scenery links up Ramallosa – Playa América (Nigrán) – Patos – Samil. It is a long but gentle stage: it is not hard, though you feel it if you leave late. That day I set off close to midday (I had a couple of things to sort out) and ended up stopping for lunch near Playa de Patos. I had a restaurant with sea views in mind, but it was full. Lesson learned: in high season, book ahead if you want a table on the front line. I improvised at a simple place next door and ate quickly to press on.

The entrance to Vigo feels endless if you arrive tired: it is a big city, long avenues and a seafront promenade that seems never to end. Patience. The upside is that you keep seeing the Cíes Islands in the distance and you gradually slide into city life.

Where I stayed in Vigo

I chose Hotel Arsus, right in the centre: 5 minutes from Calle del Príncipe and 2 minutes from Vialia Vigo (the intermodal station with the shopping centre). That location is gold: you can grab supplies in no time and set off easily the next day on the scenic port route without any detours.

One logistical note that served me well for the next stage: it is better to stay past the Plaza de España roundabout, near the station (train and buses) or in the old town. That way you avoid starting the next day with the climb up to that area, which you otherwise have to cross to continue the Camino. I slept soundly here and went to bed feeling I had made the most of the stage: sea, sand, and a big city waiting for me the next day.

Day 3, Stage 2 – From Vigo to Redondela (Cesantes, 24 km)

I woke up in the centre of Vigo with a logistical advantage: sleeping on the far side of Plaza de España saved me from starting with a free climb. I headed down to the port to join the scenic exit the Buen Camino app recommends and, on the way, stopped at the Vigo Tourist Office (here) for the first stamp of the day. At that hour the city was calm, around 22 ºC, with that typical Galician sky that alternates clear patches and clouds.

The exit through the port is pleasant and direct, but as soon as you leave Vigo behind the first serious climbs arrive. Nothing impossible, but you feel them: the route strings together urban stretches and trails and, little by little, takes you into forest. The arrows and shells of the official route appear here, so you cannot get lost. I came across more pilgrims than on previous days, though the atmosphere was still very calm — another reason I like this variant so much: it lets you walk at your own pace and, if you feel like it, in silence.

The weather did its thing: a couple of short downpours followed by clear spells. Nothing a rain jacket cannot fix… with one caveat. In Redondela I realised the jacket I was carrying was not actually waterproof and I had to buy a rain jacket there. If I started again, I would set off with a good one from day 1.

On the practical side, carry water and something to eat. Between Vigo and Redondela there are not many comfortable places to stop. Halfway through the stage, in Cabanas, there is a restaurant with views of the Rande bridge (O Eido Vello Cabanas, here) which, to be honest, struck me as expensive for what it offers and covered in too many signs telling you what you cannot do, which takes away the charm. If you still have energy, better to carry on and take a short break further ahead; the forest and the clearings are asking for it.

Arriving in Redondela signals a change of rhythm: it is a small town with a good deal of pilgrim traffic and albergues that fill up fast. Since my plan was to rest well and the afternoon was getting on, I preferred not to stay there and carried on a little further to Cesantes.

Where I stayed in Redondela/Cesantes

I chose Hostal Antolín (Cesantes). It faces the beach, in a very quiet area with fantastic views of the Rande bridge. The room was large and modern, with a big shower and a terrace/balcony looking straight out over the ría: a luxury for stretching your legs and breathing after the stage. The 20-minute detour off the Camino is worth it if you value silence and scenery. As a bonus, you can get your credencial stamped at reception in the morning before setting off again.

I closed the day with a practical decision: since I had read good reviews of the hotel on Booking but weak opinions about the restaurant on Google (especially about the food), I opted for a picnic dinner. I bought bread, cheese and salad and had it with grapes in my room; simple, cheap and perfect for recovering.

Day 4, Stage 3 – From Redondela to Pontevedra (22 km)

I started the day in Cesantes, rejoining the Camino after the detour to the hotel (about 20 minutes walking by the water). A textbook Galician morning: clouds, 23 °C, the odd clear spell and that soft light that invites you to walk. There were noticeably more people than on previous days — couples, the odd solo walker — but never crowded.

Leaving Redondela mixes a bit of everything: an urban stretch to warm up and then, straight away, forest. The terrain is varied (earth, stone, the occasional short rock you climb without using your hands) with moderate elevation change; nothing extreme, but it adds up. My routine worked very well here: first stamp of the day in the morning at the hotel, and off I went with the homework already done.

Mid-morning I reached Arcade, which for me is the stop of the day: I got my second stamp, sat down for a moment and ate calamari. I recommend eating in Arcade for two reasons: you eat well and, above all, there are not many options afterwards until Pontevedra. On the way out you cross the Sampayo Bridge, a lovely point on the stage that puts you back in Camino mode.

Just before reaching Pontevedra there is a fork (clearly marked in the Buen Camino app too). Out of curiosity I went straight on along the road: it is more direct, but I would not repeat the experience — bleak villages, almost no cars, but no services and no charm either. If you prefer a friendlier stretch, take the longer but prettier alternative.

Arriving in Pontevedra is a relief: the last few kilometres are manageable and then, suddenly, the old town. I got there with enough time to walk around a while and get my bearings for the next day (spoiler for the next chapter: Sunday in Pontevedra means a lot of closed shops, so it is worth buying what you need on the Saturday you arrive).

I had dinner at Bodegón Arca, just outside the centre (about 8 minutes on foot), which had good ratings on Google and TripAdvisor: the octopus was very good, but expensive for what it was (13 € a plate) and, in general, value for money is better in the centre. If you are watching your budget, I would stay in the old town.

Where I stayed in Pontevedra

I stayed at Hotel Ruas, next to Plaza de la Verdura. Perfect location for getting around on foot, but I would not recommend it if resting is your priority: poor soundproofing, old furniture and you hear everything. It delivers on location and not much else; if you can, look for something central but quieter.

Day 5, Stage 4 – From Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (24 km)

I left Pontevedra on a Sunday and the city was almost silent: shutters down, few people and very few shops open. That detail shaped the logistics; anything I had not bought the day before was going to be hard to find. A few minutes after leaving the centre, the Camino headed into forest. The trail was earth with some muddy patches from the overnight rain and narrow stretches shared with bikes; they appeared without warning, so I had to stay alert. It was not a hard climb, but a gentle, constant ascent that warmed up the legs. I came across very few people, and that calm helped me walk at my own pace and think.

When the forest opened up, I stopped for lunch at Mesón Don Pulpo in Barro: a generous sandwich and a soft drink for 9 €. It was Sunday and there was not much else open, so it was exactly what I needed to keep moving light. From there the scenery changed to vineyards, rural tracks and small villages. Less photogenic than the coast, but very walkable and good for keeping a steady pace.

Before heading into Caldas, I made a very short detour — five minutes there and five back — to the Fervenzas da Barosa (Área Recreativa da Barosa). It was a good call: a chain of waterfalls, wet rock and a cool corner that broke the monotony of the end of the stage. I stayed a moment to listen to the water and carried on.

I reached Caldas de Reis around five in the afternoon. The town is small and, on a Sunday, even quieter. What many pilgrims do on arriving makes complete sense here: head for the public thermal fountain and put your feet in the very hot water (it comes out at around 40 °C). That ritual is really just a quick foot bath to reduce swelling, calm the overload and bring your heart rate down after hours of walking. Ten minutes there completely changed how my legs felt.

With half the town closed, dinner was simple and unpretentious: a kebab nearby and then rest. It was a short day, but a complete one: forest at the start, countryside and villages afterwards, a useful stop in Barro, a pretty detour to the waterfalls, and the thermal baths to finish with new feet.

Where I stayed in Caldas de Reis

I stayed at the Terra de Augas II apartment, a minute from the centre. They left the keys downstairs and I walked straight in; a long shower, a bit of tidying and silence to recover. Arriving on a Sunday to an apartment turned out to be a good call: with few places open, having your own space simplified the afternoon and left me ready for the stretch to Padrón the next day. I also had the whole apartment (two bedrooms, four beds in total) to myself.

Day 6, Stage 5 – From Caldas de Reis to Padrón (21 km)

I got up in no hurry: this stage is short (16–17 km) and perfect for recharging before the final push to Santiago. It was a Monday, so before setting off I wandered through the street market on the main street and, almost as a ritual, stopped at the public thermal fountain to soak my feet.

I started walking around 12:00. The first kilometres mixed quiet streets with shaded tracks and, soon enough, forest. A short downpour came down (Galicia in its purest form), enough to leave mud and puddles; once it cleared, the path was cool and comfortable to carry on. At that hour pilgrim traffic was low, so I moved at my own pace, unhurried.

At 14:00 I made the stop of the day at Bar Esperón: a full sandwich plus an iced tea for 6.50 €. Simple, affordable and perfect for not weighing down the stomach. From there the route became very varied: stretches of earth, vineyards, small villages and rural tracks. It is precisely that constant change of scenery that made this one of the stages I enjoyed most; it never drags, and the trees give shade when the sun comes out.

The last hour before reaching Padrón was especially kind: benches and fountains started appearing where you could sit for a minute, wash your hands or even cool your feet. Walking calmly, I got to Padrón around 18:00. Doing the maths, I could even have left later; at a steady pace, this stage takes about 4 h 30 min.

Where I stayed in Padrón

I stayed at Apartamento Salomé, in the central area. Being so close to the old town and to the Camino route made it easy to set off early the next day without adding extra metres. And with everything at hand (the square, bars and a shop), I could have dinner and get my backpack ready calmly before the final day.

Day 7, Stage 6 – From Padrón to Santiago de Compostela (29 km)

It dawned raining and I decided to wait. I left Padrón around 10:30, knowing I had about 26 km ahead of me and that it was going to be a long day. The start was not especially pretty: the first kilometres hug the road, crossing neighbourhoods and plain villages while you get into your rhythm. As I went on, the route became more varied: stretches of forest and countryside that relieve the tarmac and help keep your head fresh. There were more pilgrims than on previous days; you could tell it was the final push for many of them.

On the practical side, one thing surprised me that day: in the last two hours there are not many places to get something hot to eat. I ended up having a cold sandwich in a bar about two hours from Santiago, because there was not much else.

You feel the final stretch. Before entering Santiago there is a viaduct and the surroundings turn urban again; it is not the prettiest part, but you have to get through it. The hardest bit comes at the end: the last hour is almost all uphill. I took a short break in Ames to recharge, and I would recommend it: that pause helps you face the final ramp in better shape.

I walked into Santiago (and completed the Camino) after about five hours of actual walking. The first thing I did was head for the Plaza del Obradoiro. That moment is simple and enough: sit down, look at the Cathedral (it welcomed me with sunshine) and share the arrival with people who are with you without knowing you. Then the final formality at the Pilgrim Office (to the left of the Cathedral): with the credencial full of stamps, you scan the QR code and within a few minutes you have your Compostela. I added the certificate with the distance (2 €) and bought the cardboard tube (3 €) to keep it all from creasing in my backpack. Done: Camino closed.

Where I stayed in Santiago

I slept two nights (the night I arrived, and the following day, which I spent discovering Santiago de Compostela) at Casa Diocesana Vía Lucis. It is a simple, very quiet place with the feel of a diocesan house: sober, well kept and aimed at pilgrims who want to rest properly after the last stage. Exactly what I needed that day: silence, order and a comfortable bed to bring the heart rate down.

It worked particularly well for me logistically: you can walk to the Cathedral and the Pilgrim Office without any trouble, and at the same time you are far enough from the bustle of the old town to sleep without noise.

Day 8 – What to see in Santiago de Compostela in one day

After collecting the Compostela, I stayed one more day in Santiago. And yes: it is completely worth it. I wanted to experience the city without a backpack, walk it calmly and close the Camino with a landing day.

In the morning I walked the old town without rushing: Plaza del Obradoiro, the Cathedral of Santiago from different angles, arcades, small squares and those stone streets with pilgrim atmosphere at every step. Santiago has that medieval air that draws you in: craft shops, bookshops, souvenirs, quiet cafés. It is perfect for letting yourself drift and moving in and out of squares the way you leaf through a book.

At midday I headed to the Mercado de Abastos and ate the freshest octopus, prepared in front of me. A simple, complete plan: the day's produce, no fuss, and back to walking. It is one of those moments you remember when you wonder why you would stay an extra day.

In the afternoon I did something very symbolic: I got my hair cut. Many pilgrims cut their hair or get a tattoo on arriving; I went for the first. It was my way of telling my body that the Camino was over. After that, more walking around the centre, a small purchase or two and one last loop past the Obradoiro to look at the façade in the low light.

Santiago de Compostela Cathedral seen from the steps

If you are considering it, my advice is clear: set aside 24 hours to savour Santiago. In a single day you can visit the Cathedral of St James the Apostle (including his tomb) at your own pace, eat at the Mercado de Abastos, get lost in the old town and experience the city by day and by night. It is the best way to close the Camino without brushing past its destination. The next day, with pilgrim mode winding down, it was time to head home.

Day 9 – From Santiago de Compostela back to Barcelona

Last sunrise in Santiago. I left with time to spare towards the Hórreo Intermodal Bus Station. The airport bus is caught outside, on the street (you do not need to go into the station): there are two services, the direct one taking around 20 minutes and another making more stops and taking around 40. Both cost 1 € (also cash only) and run from 6:00 to 22:45. I took the direct one and was soon at Santiago-Rosalía de Castro airport (Lavacolla) to fly back.

If you are thinking of arriving via Vigo and returning from Santiago, my experience is that it pays to buy the flights separately. When I compared prices, the multi-destination combination came out more expensive than two simple tickets (Barcelona → Vigo and Santiago → Barcelona). Buying them separately I got better times and a better price.

A Camino de Santiago waymarker (also known as a mojón or milestone)

Before wrapping up, one last look at the essentials: it was ~128 km from Baiona to Santiago, split into stages designed to be enjoyed. I walked the Camino light, with simple logistics (bookings with free cancellation, credencial to hand, two stamps a day) and without obsessing over times. On several stretches — especially in the forests, or already close to Santiago — hot food is scarce, so it worked for me to always carry water and something to eat in my backpack. The Camino itself provides the rest: changing landscapes, quiet villages, thermal springs, the sea, and that final entrance into the Plaza del Obradoiro that makes up for everything.

Buen Camino!

Frequently asked questions about the Camino Portugués coastal route